Plynlimon Fawr or Pumlumon in the Cambrian Mountains might not have the height of it’s Welsh cousins such as Pen y Fan and Snowdon, but what it lacks in altitude it more than compensates for in grandeur.
No matter how much time I spend walking in Wales, I’m forever blown away by the amazing views, wilderness and sense of drama that these incredible Welsh landscapes offer.
Before heading out on one of the most dramatic walks in Mid Wales, always check the weather conditions. Just this month, I set off in glorious sunshine, only to find myself in a snow blizzard just a few hours later. So always be prepared for every eventuality.
Where is Plynlimon Fawr? Plynlimon Fawr (meaning "five peaks” in Welsh) or Pumlumon as it’s known in Wales is the highest point of the Cambrian Mountains and the source of the River Severn, Rheidol and the Wye.
This wild and barren place is a hidden treasure among locals and is rarely explored by the thousands upon thousands who generally flock to the nearby Brecon Beacons and Snowdonia National Park.
At 2468 ft, the summit sits just above the other nearby peaks including Pen Pumlumon Arwystli, Y Garn, Pen Pumlumon Llygad-bychan and Pumlumon Fach. The mountain also sits in the centre of Wales, half way between Cadair Idris in Snowdonia and Pen y Fan in the Brecon Beacons.
It’s also worth mentioning that just 10% of the UK population are able to open their curtains and get lost in the true wonders of the night sky, making this area the perfect place to experience thousands of stars and the Milky Way without any interruption. In fact, it contains some of the darkest night skies in Europe and along with the nearby Elan Valley Reserve hold a silver tier International Dark Sky Park award for its opportunities to stargaze.
How Should I Visit? Start Grid Reference : SN 799, 842
At first glance, the start point in the hamlet of Eisteddfa Gurig might seem undistinguished.
With little more than a farm, nearby bridge and small cark park, you’ll struggle to find hordes of tourists and hundreds of cars which have plagued other more well known tourist hotspots.
In my opinion, the start point to this circular walk is the easiest of the three routes. The others are Dyffryn Castell Hotel, just a few miles east of Ponterwyd on the A44 and the shortest but also the steepest route from Nant y Moch Reservoir.
Taking the farm track through the centre of the farm yard and workshop, you’ll soon find yourself on an unremarkable hillside and wonder whether your walking the correct way.
However, this broad and boggy summit area offer the best views as you begin to climb the dirt track alongside the former mine ruins and the river Tarenig.
After passing the ruins just a short distance, leave the track to the left and take a steep way-marked path following a series of stone cairns to the fence above.
Once you have crossed the woodenstile, you’ll find yourself just meters from the summit of Pen Plynlimon Fawr marked S1578 by Ordnance Survey as a triangulation point.
Then simply catch your breath and take in these spectacular views in all directions.
Finally, you can either climb back down the way you came up, or head back over the fence and walk down hill, keeping the fence on your right hand side. You’ll soon pass two ponds on your left and continue towards the edge of the forestry in the distance.
Head left and follow the fence further down along the edge of the forest and when the path connects to a bridleway, bear left and continue down to the start point, passing some old mine ruins.
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